After picking up my bags and Mad Maggie-delicious, I had to pay a fee at customs to allow my mangy mutt entrance into the wider world of Buenos Aires (i.e. the world wider than the baggage claim and customs areas at Ezeiza Airport). However, there were no ATMs in customs and the fee can only be paid in cash. Strangely enough, I had given the last of my U.S. money to Jan at Dulles Airport, in a (clearly misguided) attempt to help pay for gas he expended on both trips to the airport on my behalf (first to pick Maggie up when she arrived from Mexico, and again to deport me to Argentina). And since Buenos Aires is a major, metropolitan city that prides itself on its European-ness, I just assumed ATMs would abound. Well, clearly we know what assuming does…
So, I asked the guards if I would be allowed back into the customs area if I left to go get some money, and they said “yes;” all I had to do was circle around to this back door and knock (maybe even say the magic words like entering a speakeasy).
So I leave customs, with all my bags and my dog sitting by the counter where I had to pay these “I love my puppy” fees, and entered the general din that is the rest of the airport. My colleagues were standing with all the other friends and family members in that pen-like area just outside the doors and were ready to run to the car. Jerry (my office sponsor) just handed me a hundred Argentine pesos (approximately equivalent to US$25) and I tried to get back to Maggie and my luggage.
Well, guess what? (You’ve probably already foreseen where this story was going, but I, in all my sleepless wonder, had no idea what the hell I was doing at the time.) When I went to this weird back door and knocked, I was told that I needed a representative of United Airlines to escort me back into the customs area. WTF?!!??
So we wander all around the ticketing area, looking for an office for the United folks. We seriously just jumped behind a counter and started walking up and down the hallways behind the ticketing stations, where the offices are located.
Eventually we found some kind United employee, who escorted us all the way back to the customs area, to again knock on the speakeasy-like door, say the magic words, and, “Voila!”: entry back into customs.
Thankfully, none of my stuff had been stolen, the people who had been helping me before allowed me to cut in front of this miles-long line that had appeared since I last left the area a half hour prior, and I paid the token fee.
So I grabbed all my stuff, very awkwardly might I add, and exited customs for the second time that day.
Of course, that’s not the end of the adventures.
We drove the hour or so from the airport to my temporary digs, deposited Maggie, completed the world’s fastest grocery run, toured the neighborhood in 20 seconds or less, and then parted ways so I could take a nap and so Jerry could return to the office.
This should have been fantastic, as I was out of energy reserves, but here’s why it was not: I nearly froze to death trying to take a nap.
Now, many of you have already told me how unsympathetic you are to my plight because, after all, I am in Buenos Aires. I know. But all the same, I haven’t lived in a Latin American country yet that is even remotely equipped to handle cold weather. And the week I arrived, Argentina just plummeted into a cold snap (yeah, the week prior it was 60 degrees F). This literally means that people and animals (sorry, Andrew, about the alpacas) have been dying because of the weather.
Moreover, Buenos Aires hadn’t experienced such cold temperatures in at least ten years. In fact, there was this article in CBS News within 2 days of my arrival:
“FRIGID TEMPERATURES, SNOW IN ARGENTINA!
A polar air mass settled in Argentina this week pushing temperatures down across the country and causing rare snowfall in the Buenos Aires province.
People in downtown Buenos Aires bundled up against the cold as temperatures ducked down near freezing, taking locals by surprise.
Street vendors ran a swift trade in hats, scarves and gloves as rumors floated around that snow might fly in the capital. A snow in 2007 in Buenos Aires, the first in 89 years, touched off euphoria amongst residents.
Meteorologist Daniel Cortes said the cold air mass pushed up from Antarctica and settled in the middle of the country.
‘The entrance of a cold front from the Antarctica into the middle of the country caused very low temperatures and snows in the province of Buenos Aires, especially on the coast,’ he said.”
Yeah, that’s right, I now live in a country that freaks out if it snows. It kind of reminds me of DC…
But I digress. So it’s cold in Buenos Aires when I arrive. Which is fine, except for the following:
- All my heavy winter sweaters, hats, scarves, gloves, and jackets are in my Unaccompanied Air Baggage (UAB), which I believe may arrive just as the temperatures start to hit 70 degrees F again. I will defend myself by stating that I packed out in early June, when the forecasts were still calling for 50-60 degree weather in July in Buenos Aires. Did I mention that it’s not normally this cold here?
- The Welcome Kit in my apartment only came with a sheet set and a blanket, which is about the equivalent of trying to keep warm by wrapping yourself in a large sheet of paper. Not very helpful.
- And the kicker? The heat in my apartment was nonfunctional.
Not yet being aware that everything in Buenos Aires can be delivered (and yes, that even includes a single coke, a pint of ice cream, dog food – really, whatever you want, it’s the bonaerense way), I dragged this man-sized bag of blankets all the way back to my apartment, where I finally curled up with Mag-delicious and the new, cozy linens for a long, long nap.
Welcome to Buenos Aires to me…



























